The Sultanahmet district in the Old Town was the core of the city during the Byzantine and Ottoman periods. Every important building, palace, and government office was here—and many of these places are world-famous museums and sights today. The area is named for the Blue Mosque (officially called the Sultan Ahmet Mosque, after its namesake).
The term "Sultanahmet" is used loosely to refer to the open space near Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and the Hippodrome. Trams run along the main street, Divan Yolu, and can zip you to most of Istanbul's key sights. The rest of the streets around Sultanahmet are narrow, originally built for horse-drawn carriages.
Sultanahmet's proximity to the sights is a mixed blessing. It was once a strictly residential area, but in recent years more and more of the traditional old Ottoman houses have been converted into hotels and pensions. As property values increase, few locals can afford to live here anymore. So even though the buildings are in genuine Istanbul style, the people aren't. Most of the Turks you encounter in Sultanahmet are trying to sell you something—an inaccurate and unfortunate first impression of a kind and generous people. Daylight hours in Sultanahmet are lively—there's plenty to see and do. Besides the many historical buildings, there are countless cafes and shops. In the evenings, many locals who work nearby go home, leaving the restaurants and cafes to tourists. But a few gems are still frequented by locals, and are listed in the Eating chapter.
Our recommended Sultanahmet hotels are centrally located within a 10-minute walk of Istanbul's biggest sights (Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Grand Bazaar). For a short visit of one or two days, you can sleep in Sultanahmet, walk to all the sights, and never have to take public transportation.
When we've listed seasonal prices, "summer" refers to mid-March through mid-November, and "winter" (or "low season") refers to mid-November through mid-March. Most hotels offer a 10 percent discount if you pay cash.
Tourist Information: The neighborhood TI is at the bottom of the square called the Hippodrome, across from Hagia Sophia (daily 9:00-17:00).
Post Office: The nearest post office is by the ticket office of Topkapi Palace (Mon-Fri 9:00-16:30).
Transportation Connections: The very convenient Sultanahmet tram stop is on Divan Yolu, a few steps from Hagia Sophia. The tram connects you to Eminönü, a hub for public buses and ferries, and can also take you north of the Golden Horn to the New District.

Hotels

Four Seasons Hotel, housed in what was once the city prison, is Istanbul's fanciest splurge hotel. Its 65 luxurious rooms come with all the comforts you'd expect, and then some (standard Sb-€255, standard Db-€280, these prices don't include tax, fancier rooms are more expensive, check Web site for deals, breakfast-€23 extra, locally famous Sunday brunch-€45, Tevkifhane 1, tel. 0212/638-8200, fax 0212/638-8530, www.fourseasons.com).

Hotel Empress Zoe, about a hundred yards downhill from the main gate of Topkapi Palace, is well-run and has oodles of character. The 25 rooms are scattered in several fun buildings surrounding a courtyard with chunks of old Ottoman walls. The treehouse floor plan is memorable, and the unique rooms have pizzazz (budget S-€55, standard S-€75, budget Db-€65, standard Db-€105, suite-€125-225, 10 percent discount with cash, prices drop 20-25 percent in low season, air-con, tight spiral staircase with no elevator, Akbıyık Sokak, Adliye Mahallesi 10, tel. 0212/518-2504, fax 0212/518-5699, www.emzoe.com, This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ).

Ottoman Hotel Imperialsc is a fresh-feeling place across the street from the side of the Hagia Sophia. Its 27 rooms—plus 25 more in a brand-new annex building—are comfortable and plush (Sb-€69, Db-€89, "premium" rooms with Hagia Sophia view-€20 extra, 5 percent discount and free one-way airport transfer with this book, air-con, elevator, Caferiye Sokak 6/1, tel. 0212/513-6150, fax 0212/512-7628, www.ottomanhotelimperial.com, info @ottomanhotelimperial.com).

Aya Sofya Pansions is beautifully located on a quiet, traffic-free lane squeezed between Hagia Sophia and the Topkapi Palace wall. The pension consists of a whole street's worth of 19th-century Ottoman row houses, converted into 63 worn rooms for rent. A planned renovation could push rates up by about €20 per room. Higher prices are for rooms with a view of Hagia Sophia (summer: Sb-€85-100, Db-€110-130; winter: Sb-€50-70, Db-€75-90; request room with air-con in summer, lots of stairs and no elevator, all along Soğukçeşme Sokak, tel. 0212/513-3660, fax 0212/513-3669, www.ayasofyapensions.com, info @ayasofyakonaklari.com). Sarnıç Restaurant, just beyond the reception house, is a great splurge (see listing in the Eating chapter).

Blue House has 26 nicely decorated rooms with a bold color scheme. Some rooms have views of the nearby Blue Mosque (Sb-€70-120, Db-€85-140, higher prices are for summer, 10 percent discount with cash, 10 percent additional discount with this book, air-con, elevator, Albastı Sokak 14, tel. 0212/638-9010, fax 0212/638-9017, www.bluehouse.com.tr, This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ).

Arena Hotel is in a quiet neighborhood a few blocks beyond the Hippodrome. This restored stone mansion from 1870 has 27 romantically decorated rooms, helpful staff, a Turkish bath, and a great breakfast buffet (summer: Sb-€90, Db-€110; winter: Sb-€60, Db-€80; upscale "Sultan's Corner" and "Imperial Corner" rooms are more expensive, check Web site for deals mid-June-mid-Aug, discounts and free airport transfer with longer stays, air-con, elevator, Şehit Mehmet Paşa Yokuşu, Üçler Hamamı Sokak 13-15, just one block from Sokullu Mosque, tel. 0212/458-0364, fax 0212/458-0366, www.arenahotel.com, This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ).

Sultan Ahmet Palace, with 36 clean, classy rooms across the street from the Blue Mosque, will have you feeling like a guest of the sultan. From the deserted-feeling street, you'll pass through a lush garden, then an elegant lobby, to reach the reception desk— and in your bathroom, you'll find faux-Turkish bath fixtures. This place is likely to have space when others are full (standard Sb-€115, standard Db-€130, €15 more for 1-night stays, greedy 2 percent service charge, check Web site for deals, air-con, no elevator, free airport transfer with 2-night stay, Torun street 19, tel. 0212/458-0460, fax 0212/518-6224, www.sultanahmetpalace.com, saray @sultanahmetpalace.com).

Hotel Ibrahim Paşa, a few steps from the Hippodrome, is a small, comfortable hotel with 12 rooms (Sb-€95, Db-€125, price varies with season, 10 percent discount with cash, air-con, Terzihane Sokak 5, tel. 0212/518-0394, fax 0212/518-4457, www .ibrahimpasha.com, This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ).

Obelisk Hotel, about two blocks from the Blue Mosque, was converted from an old Ottoman house. While tired, the 41 rooms manage an old-fashioned charm. The breakfast terrace has sweeping views of the Bosphorus, Sea of Marmara, and the Blue Mosque (promotional S-€48, standard S-€55, seaview S-€77, promotional Db-€59, standard Db-€65, seaview Db-€90, cheaper in winter, 10 percent discount with cash, additional 5 percent discount with this book, air-con, elevator plus some stairs, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, Mimar Mehmet Ağa 17-19, tel. 0212/517-7173, fax 0212/517-8661, www.obeliskhotel.com, This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ).

Hippodrome Hotel is owned by the nearby Obelisk Hotel (listed above). Its newly renovated rooms, while small, are comfortably decorated with new furniture. In the building across the street, they also have two three-bedroom apartments with room for six, and a two-bedroom apartment with room for four— ideal for families (standard S-€69, standard Db-€89, apartment-€240, cheaper in winter, 10 percent discount with cash, air-con, elevator, breakfast at Obelisk Hotel, Mimar Mehmet Ağa 38, tel. 0212/517-6889, fax 0212/516-0268, www.hippodromehotel.com, This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ).

Hotel Valide Sultan ("Sultan's Mother") is a hundred yards down the street from the Topkapi Palace's Imperial Gate. This 19th-century Ottoman mansion has 17 neat rooms, a friendly staff, and an imperial lobby with elegant furnishings, though it's a bit past its prime (Sb-€70, Db-€90, Tb-€110, €20 cheaper mid-Nov-mid-March, 10 percent discount with cash, air-con, some rooms have sea views, elevator, free one-way airport transfer with 2-night stay, Ishak Paşa Caddesi, Kutluğun Sokak 1, tel. 0212/517-6558, fax 0212/638-0705, www.hotelvalidesultan.com, vsultan @hotelvalidesultan.com).

Apricot Hotel, about a block downhill from the Blue Mosque, is a great budget option. Well-run and well-priced, it has 18 tight, straightforward rooms plus six suites in a nearby annex
(with whirlpool tub or Turkish bath). Several rooms have views of the Blue Mosque, and breakfast is served on a beautiful Sea of Marmara-view terrace. Ongoing renovations mean that prices are subject to change (S-€49, Db-€59-79, 10 percent discount with cash for readers of this book, no elevator but lots of stairs, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, Yeni Akbıyık Caddesi 75, tel. 0212/638-1658, fax 0212/638-1658, www.apricothotel.com).

Hotel Golden Horn Sultanahmet, one block behind the Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum, is very close to the Divan Yolu thoroughfare and the Sultanahmet tram stop. With less character than all the "Special Class" listings in this area, this standard four-star hotel in a modern building is a reliable choice. All 71 rooms have air-conditioning, and some rooms have views of the sea and Blue Mosque (S-€60, Db-€75, T-€95, stay six nights and get the seventh night free, 10 percent discount for guests 60 and older, 5 percent discount if you mention this book—but discounts cannot be combined, even lower prices off-season, Binbirdirek 1, tel. 0212/517-9890, fax 0212/517-9977, www.goldenhornhotel.com, This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ).

Taş Konak Hotel is a cheap option in a dull residential neighborhood a 10-minute walk below the Blue Mosque. This former Ottoman house has 32 rooms watched over by a disinterested staff. The rooftop breakfast terrace features fine views of the Sea of Marmara (Sb-€52, Db-€64, suite-€80, 10 percent discount with cash, check Web site for promotions and off-season deals, air-con, no elevator, free airport transfer with 4-night stay, Küçük Ayasofya Caddesi, Tomurcuk Sokak 5, tel. 0212/518-2882, fax 0212/638-8491, www.hoteltashkonak.com, This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ).

Hostels

The first three hostels—and several others, not listed here—are on or near the bustling-with-backpackers Yeni Akbıyık Caddesi ("White Moustache Street"), a couple of blocks below the Blue Mosque (toward the Sea of Marmara). Each one offers dorm beds and some double rooms. If you're trying to avoid American backpackers and other international travelers, give this street a miss.

Istanbul Hostel, just up the street from the Four Seasons, is nicely located and well-run. Its 60 beds are filled with travelers who enjoy hanging out in the basement bar or roof-top terrace (€10 bunks in 4-, 6-, or 9-bed dorms, D-€25, cheaper off-season, bathrooms down the hall, includes basic Turkish breakfast, nonsmoking, free Internet access, Kutlu Gün Sokak 35, tel. 0212/516-9380, www.istanbulhostel.net, This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ).

Orient International Hostel is an official HI hostel and a backpacker mecca. The 94 beds in 25 rooms are a bit institutional, but a steady stream of Australian and Kiwi backpackers keeps the place lively (dorm beds-€9-ll, S-€19, twin D-€25, Db-€35, includes simple Turkish breakfast, free Internet access, check Web site for promotions and off-season deals, Yeni Akbıyık Caddesi 13, tel. 0212/518-0789, fax 0212/518-3894, www.orienthostel.com, This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ).

Sultan Hostel is another HI hostel, but feels less institutional than the Orient (dorm beds-€ll-13, Db-€35, includes basic Turkish breakfast, free Internet access, check Web site for promotions and off-season discounts, Yeni Akbıyık Caddesi 21, tel. 0212/516-9260, fax 0212/516-9260, www.sultanhostel.com, This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ).

Hotel Stone, two long blocks below the top of the Hippodrome (across from Sokullu Mosque), is a suitable budget option with some of the area's lowest prices. Located in a quiet, mostly residential neighborhood, this hostel-feeling place has basic rooms with dingy carpet, plus a pair of gender-segregated dorm rooms and a relaxing stone garden out back. Rates may go up with an upcoming renovation (dorm bed-€10, Sb-€25, Db-€40, €5-10 less off-season, discount for longer stays, no air-con, no elevator but lots of stairs, free one-way airport transfer with 6-night stay, Binbirdirek Mahallesi, Şehit Mehmet Paşa Yokuşu 34, tel. 0212/517-6331, fax 0212/517-6330, www.stonehotel.net).