Istanbul is home to the Grand Bazaar (also known as the covered bazaar),

the world's first shopping mall and is an excellent place to buy carpets and kilims

(discussed below), ceramics (see below), leather goods, silk products, jewelry, vintage

books, maps and prints (the Book Bazaar, located outside of the Grand Bazaar in

Istanbul, has an excellent selection).

Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar has more than 4,000 separate shops

and is literally a covered city. The Grand Bazaar is a good place to buy ceramics and

other souvenirs.  Only a few stores in the bazaar have prices indicated on the

merchandise and in true Turkish fashion you will have to negotiate your sale prices.  I

strongly recommend that you do not buy from the first shop you see.  Use that shop as

a place to gauge prices and then use that price as a guide in the next shop that you

come to.  As a general rule, expect to pay about half of the original price offered to you

by the salesman.

Ceramics

Turkey has been famous for its colored tilework since the 16th

century, when artisans in Iznik produced some of the most beautiful work ever made.

Today, most of the ceramics in Turkey are produced by artisans in a town called

Kutahya, which is located south east of Istanbul.  If you can find it I recommend Dalida

Ceramics, located in the Grand Bazaar on Yaglikcilar Caddesi near the Oruculer Gate

(or call them at 212-513-4804).  While their main shop is small they will take you to their

warehouses located a short distance away.  They have a great selection and will give

you very good prices, especially if you tell them I sent you.  They also do a very nice

wrapping job.  Ask for Tarkan, the sales manager.  Tell him you were sent by the

American Avukat (that's lawyer in Turkish) and he will give you fair and reasonable

prices.

Carpets/Kilims

Buying a carpet (Halı in Turkish) or kilim (a flat-woven rug)

during your trip to Turkey will make your trip a memorable one for several reasons.

First, your purchase will serve as a long-term reminder of your wonderful trip to Turkey.

Second, you will certainly not forget the process of purchasing your carpet or kilim.

Buying a carpet in Turkey is a truly unique experience.  Unlike most stores in the United

States, prices for carpets in Turkey (and many other items) are negotiated.  One does

not just walk into a store and ask the price.  You will be asked to sit down, drink Turkish

coffee or tea and then you will be shown numerous carpets.  Once you see a carpet that

you like, ask the price and the negotiations will begin.  Because the carpet dealers have

much more information than you on their products (and are very good salesmen), you

are operating at a major disadvantage in the negotiation process and may be taken for

a ride.  Prices vary widely from store to store and from city to city within Turkey.  It is a

good idea to purchase carpets only from reputable dealers or from a shop that you were

referred to by a friend.

Despite the large selection of carpets and kilims in Istanbul's Grand Bazaar,

you may want to avoid buying a carpet or kilim there since the prices in the Grand

Bazaar are higher than you would find anywhere else in Turkey.  Also, be sure to avoid

the myriad of carpet sellers that hang out near the Aya Sophia and Blue Mosque.

Your carpet buying experience will be enhanced if you have done some

homework in advance on the price of the style and size of carpet you are interested in

(Turkey is famous for its Hereke carpets, which have a multi-floral design).  Also, if you

are planning to buy a carpet you should measure the place where you want the carpet

to go.  Make sure to convert your measurements to centimeters.

Finally, don't forget that carpets are very heavy (kilim's are much more travel

friendly).  Unless you plan to ship it home, you should purchase your carpet as close to

the end of your trip as possible.  Reputable carpet shops will give you a duffle-like carry

bag for the carpet and, depending on the size, you can carry it on board the plane or

check it as baggage.

I have had good experiences with several carpet shops in Istanbul.  Two are

located in  Sultanahmet, the old city of Istanbul and two are located in the newer part of

Istanbul.

Harem 49 – This carpet shop is located at the East end of the Arasta

Bazaar, a large group of shops located directly behind the Blue Mosque.  Harem 49 has

a great selection of carpets and kilims.  Huseyin, the owner of the store is a very nice

gentlemen, but be sure to ask for Musfafa, who is their lead salesman.  He is very

knowledgeable about carpets and kilims.  Most importantly, he is a true gentleman and

a pleasure to deal with.  Harem 49 has a very good and informative Web site

(www.harem49.com) which you can check out prior to your trip.  They are also very

experienced in shipping carpets to the U.S.  Unlike the shops in the Grand Bazaar, the

shops in the Arasta Bazaar are open on Sunday and until around 8 p.m. in the evening.

ER&NE&MET – Ernemet has two stores and has a huge selection of carpets

and kilims.  They have a small shop located in the West end of the Arasta Bazaar (no.

109) in Sultanahmet and a very nice showroom located just one  block away.  See their

Web site for directions (www.ernemet.com).  Ask for Faruk Metin (the Met in Ernemet),

who is one of the owners and he will take good care of you.  Ernemet is open on

Sunday.

Şengor (pronounced Shengor) – Is located near Taksım across the street

from the Divan Hotel.  It is a small store, but it has an excellent reputation and has been

in business for a very long time.  Şengor is closed on Sunday.

Other Things to Buy – Other things to buy in Turkey include things

decorated with the "evil eye" (nazar boncuk in Turkish-pronounced na-ZAR bon-JOOK).

The nazar boncuk is probably the most common article in any Turkish home or car.  It

consists of a small white circle set within a larger blue circle and can take the form of

beads, pendants, wall decorations, etc..  The nazar boncuk tradition dates back to the

age-old "evil eye" superstition that one person can cast a spell on another. To prevent

this, Turkish artisans created a blue glass "eye" that "looks" straight back at the spellcaster.

It has no religious significance, and few people believe in the evil eye

superstition anymore, but it is a commonly accepted part of Turkish culture.

(djacobsonlaw.com)