Backpackers Restaurant
Yeni Akbıyık Caddesi 1411, Sultanahmet, 34400 Tel (0212) 638 55 86
Simple, upbeat snacks are served here with the accent more on wines and beer than food. This is very much a cheerful and informal budget gathering place. People congregate to drink, eat hearty snacks swap travel stories and plan their next journey. Backpackers is a great staging post in the budget area of Sultanahmet

Doy-Doy
Şifa Hamamı Sokak 13, Sultanahmet, 34110 Tel (0212) 517 15 88
An impressive selection of soups, kebabs, pide (flat bread) in abundance, colourful salads, vegetarian dishes and rich desserts is on offer here. Everything is prepared very authentically. Doy-Doiy is a cheerful venue with great prices but alcohol is not served. The rooftop terrace is perfect in summer with inviting views and sea breezes.

Group Restaurant 
Şehit Mehmet Paşa Yokuşu 4, Sultanafimet, 34110 Tel (0212) 517 47 00 
Armada Hotel, Ahır Kapı Sokak, Sultanahmet, 34110 Tel (0212) 638 13 70
Part gift shop, part cafe and restaurant, this is a magnet for tourists and is always bustling The coffee and sticky pastries are popular but more substantial fare is also served. Grills, salads and stews are on the menu and served in generous portions at reasonable prices. Alcohol is available

Ahırkapı Lokanta
This restaurant has the atmosphere of a 1930s Turkish tavern and live fasıl music. In keeping with the decor, the cuisine is typically Turkish with a variety of delicious mezes and main dishes, such as yoğurtlu yaprak dolması (minced meat in vine leaves with yoghurt). The rooftop terrace boasts views over Sultanahmet

Konyalı
Topkapı Palace, Sultanahmet, 34110 Tel (0212) 513 96 96
This gastronomic landmark has been in business for four decades, serving appetizing mezes, meats salads and fish There is an award-winning a la carte menu. Located within the Topkapı Palace, it has commanding views of the Bosphorus. Try the elegant "afternoon tea" menu. Konyalı is open for lunch only and closed on Tuesdays.

Sarnıç
Soğukçeşme Sokak, Sultanahmet, 34110 Tel (0212) 512 42 91
Converted from a Byzantine cistern with lofty columns and a domed ceiling, Sarnıç is dimly lit by wrought-iron chandeliers and candles and has an impressive fireplace. Piano music is often played in the evenings The menu has variety but diners come here more for the atmosphere than the top cuisine

Seven Hills Restaurant
Tevkifhane Sokak 8, Sultanahmet, 34110 Tel (0212) 516 94 97
The chef here is from Bolu, a region that nurtures Turkey's most creative chefs. The food is outstanding and the choice is sumptuous - try the fresh fish, lobster and seafood, or the star dish, the Sultan's Lamb Top it off with well-chosen wines and a view over Haghia Sophia. This restaurant is part of the Seven Hills Hotel

Café Camille
Bab-i All Caddesi 8, Cagaloglu, 34110 Tel (0212) 527 81 77 
This small cafe, with its industrious, bustling kitchen, is the place to grab a cup of coffee or a foaming cappuccino and home-made cakes. Simple lunches with quiche, omelettes and salads are popular They serve delicious fresh fruit luices and milk shakes. The service is brisk and friendly.

Cafe Müze
Divanyolu Caddesi 84, Çemberlitaş, 34110 Tel (0212) 512 00 80 
Lacking any pretensions, this is a small cafe adjacent to the old printing presses at the Press Museum. Omelettes, hot and cold snacks and sandwiches and a few salads are on offer and the coffee Is good. They also serve draft beer It is a relief to come here to escape the bustle of the busy street outside.

Cağaloğlu Paksut 
Bab-i Ali Caddesi 16, Cağaloğlu, 34110 Tel (0212) 528 63 94 
Diners will find good, honest cooking here. Stews, salads, rice and vegetable dishes are freshly cooked each day at this popular neighbourhood lokanta (traditional restaurant). It is best to go at lunch time. No alcohol is served but there are fruit juices and mineral water.

Cennet     
Divanyolu 90, Çemberlitaş, Sultanahmet, 34110 Tel (0212)513 14 16 
Cennet means heaven and here they specialize in Anatolian dishes such as mantı (meat-filled ravioli topped with yoghurt) and gözleme (pancakes) cooked over a griddle. Women wear traditional costume and diners sit on the ground on colourful cushions and watch the food being prepared. This is a great place for filling upon snacks.

TheCure
Divanyolu Caddesi, Ticarethane Sokak 35, Sultanahmet, 34110 Tel (0212) 528 19 22 
There is a staggering selection of truly creative International dishes to sample here. Liver with an onion and spinach sauce is popular, the fajitas are delicious and so is the hot corn soup. The service is enthusiastic. Prices for exotic cocktails are high and light jazz is played on occasion.

Sultanahmet Köftecisi 
Divanyolu Caddesi 12A, Sultanahmet, 34110 Tel (0212) 513 14 38 
Almost an institution in Sultanahmet, this restaurant has been going since the 1920s and turns out simple, trademark dishes such as köfte (meatballs), piyaz (beans in sauce) and pilav (rice). Locals crowd in here for lunch and queues mean there Is no lingering.

The Pudding Shop 
Divanyolu Caddesi 6, Sultanahmet, 34110 Tel (0212) 522 29 70 
In the 1950s, nowhere else in Istanbul provided food and tourist information to backpackers. They serve wonderfully cooked Turkish fare. There is an excellent choice of soups, grilled meats, salads, stews and sauteed dishes and, of course, rich puddings. Former customers frequently return.

Valide Sultan Konak 
Kutluğun Sokak 1, Sultanahmet, 34110 Tel (0212) 638 06 00 
The semicircular rooftop restaurant of the Valide Sultan Konağı Hotel (seep186) commands stunning views of the sea and historic surrounding area. Menus are well balanced with meat, vegetables, meze, kebabs and stews. The stuffed vegetables are particularly creative and taste as good as they look. They also serve seafood and pizzas.

Balıkçı Sabahattin 
Seyt Hasankuyu Sokak 1, Sultanahmet, 34110 Tel (0212) 458 23 02 
Everything works well at this delightful fish restaurant. They have a long and delicious menu, having been in business since 1927. The fish and seafood are mouthwatering and other creative dishes include spicy squash with yoghurt. Recommended for smart service and consistently good food. There is a no smoking section

Kathisma 
YeniAkbıyık Caddesidesi 26, Sultanahmet, 34400 Tel (0212) 518 97 10 
This stylish restaurant takes its name from the Byzantine emperor's lodge which once overlooked the Hipppodrome (see p80). Turkish dishes include miicver (fried courgettes), fırında kuzu (roast lamb) and some typical and delicious desserts such as sakızlı sütlaç (rice pudding with gum mastic).

Rami 
Utangaç Sokak 6, Sultanahmet, 34110 Tel (0212)517 65 93 
Dedicated to a 20th-century painter, Rami Uluer, this romantic restaurant is one of the prettiest in the area. It excels in traditional Ottoman cuisine. Hünkar beğendi (meat with a creamy aubergine puree) is a popular dish. Evening diners can see the sound and light display at the Blue Mosque from the terrace.

Rumeli Cafe 
Ticarethane Sokak 8, Sultanahmet, 34110 Tel (0212) 512 00 08 
This is a delightfully atmospheric restaurant just off the busy Divanyolu. Housed in an old printing factory, the Rumeli has a strong Greek flavour to it as well as Mediterranean aromas. Vegetarian dishes are popular and specialties include grilled lamb with various sauces. Tomatoes, herbs and yoghurt feature in many dishes

Türkistan Aşevi
Tavukhane Sokak 36, Sultanahmet, 34110 Tel (0212) 638 65 25 
A converted Ottoman mansion house, Türkistan Aşevi is furnished with exquisite carpets and textiles. Diners eat in nomadic style using copper trays for tables and wearing the slippers provided. Central Asian-style mantı (ravioli) and gözleme (pancakes) are favourites and done well. No alcohol is served.