In the Old Town's Sultanahmet Area

These restaurants—along with most of our recommended hotels and much of Istanbul's best sightseeing—are concentrated in the Sultanahmet area.

Sarnıç ("Cistern") is located on Soğukçeşme street between Topkapi Palace and Hagia Sophia. This upscale restaurant within an underground Byzantine cistern gives you the opportunity to dine in a unique setting, under vaulted ceilings and ancient columns. The international menu includes specialties with an Ottoman flair, such as Byzantine-style shrimp with honey (daily 19:00-24:00, dinner reservations smart, sometimes violin and piano music at night, Soğukçeşme Sokağı, tel. 0212/513-3660).

Balıkçı Sabahattin is the one Old Town seafood restaurant that locals would travel to even from Asian Istanbul. With white-tablecloth outdoor tables on a quiet street about three blocks below the Blue Mosque, it's known for its delicious hot and cold mezes—including herbed monkfish, rice pilaf with mussels, and grilled calamari . If you still have room after the appetizers, try one of their fish dishes (daily 11:00-1:00 in the morning, reservations recommended, Seyit Hasan Kuyu Sokak 1, Cankurtaran, tel. 0212/458-1824).

Yeşil Ev ("Green House"), half a block from the Blue Mosque, has the best garden atmosphere in the Old Town, in a pleasantly shaded garden around a marble Ottoman fountain. In cold weather, take refuge inside the picturesque greenhouse. This is a great place for a full Turkish-Ottoman meal, or just a cold beer on a hot day (daily 11:00-23:00, delicious grape leaves and fish soup, dinner reservations smart, in Yeşil Ev Hotel at Kabasakal Sokak 5, tel. 0212/517-6785).

Rami's signature dish is "paper kebab," a vegetable and lamb stew that's wrapped and baked in oiled paper. You'll eat in a recently restored Ottoman house decorated with paintings by the owner's father, the Turkish painter Rami Uluer (daily 12:30-23:00, cash only, behind the Blue Mosque at Utangaç Sokak 6, tel. 0212/ 517-6593 or 0212/638-5321). Yeni Akbıyık Caddesi ("White Moustache Street") is lined with casual restaurants serving simple Turkish food and beer to a United Nations of gregarious backpackers. Most eateries open early in the morning to offer breakfast to youth hostelers, and you'll find several small grocery stores selling basic food items and fruit (one block below the Blue Mosque, toward the Sea of Marmara).

Budget Eateries on Divan Yolu, in the Heart of Sultanahmet

These two famous and very convenient restaurants stand side-by-side along the busy street called Divan Yolu, across the tram tracks from Hagia Sophia and the Hippodrome (just downhill from the Sultanahmet tram stop).
Sultanahmet Köftecisi ("Sultanahmet Meatballs") is so famous for its meatballs that it's spurred an epidemic of imitation joints throughout Turkey rolling out knock-off köfte. The very limited menu includes just two main courses , four sides (including tomato-and-onion salad, and the local favorite, piyaz, a white bean salad in olive oil), and two desserts. But you can't come here without sampling those köfte— "meatballs" that are more like sausages, served with picked green peppers (daily 11:00-23:00, Divan Yolu 12, tel. 0212/520-0566).

Lale Restaurant is the famous "Pudding Shop," where a generation of vagabond hippies started their long journey east on the "Freak Road" to Kathmandu in the '60s. Today, the much tamer but still tourist-friendly eatery cranks out a full selection of seasonal Turkish food and chicken or beef kebabs. The misnamed "Pudding Shop" is actually a self-service cafeteria. Adem and his English-speaking staff can help you choose, and will even carry your tray to the upstairs seating area (daily 7:00-22:00, Divan Yolu 6, tel. 0212/522-2970).

Budget Eateries near the Blue Mosque and the Top of the Hippodrome

These two popular budget options—friendly rivals facing each other across the street—are a few steps off the top of the Hippodrome and tucked behind the Blue Mosque. They distinguish themselves by remaining humble, affordable, and local-feeling despite their prime location. To get there from the Hippodrome, face the Column of Constantine with the Blue Mosque on your left, then leave the Hippodrome on the street to the left, and hook downhill to the right...following the sounds of happy alfresco diners.

Buhara 98's affordable, down-to-earth food tastes like grandma just cooked it: simple and tasty. Their flat bread {lavaş; lah-vahsh) is baked after you order and served right out of the wood-fired oven. When it arrives on your table, it looks like an inflated pillow. This is also a fine place to sample pide, Turkish-style pizza (daily 7:30-21:30, can be crowded at lunch and early dinner but no reservations needed, no alcohol served, Nakilbend Sokak 15, tel. 0212/516-9657).

DoyDoy originally catered only to local businesspeople. But with its good food, affordable prices, and terrace view of the Blue Mosque, this popular but unpretentious place soon earned the attention of international travelers...and guidebook writers (daily 7:30-22:00, can be crowded at lunch and early dinner but no reservations needed, no alcohol served, Şifa Hamamı Sokak 13, tel. 0212/517-1588).

Seafood Splurge near the Sea of Marmara

Giritli Restaurant, one block from the Sea of Marmara, is an Old Town favorite among Istanbul residents. With dressy white-tablecloth ambience, it serves fresh seafood in an old two-story mansion with an inviting walled garden. Selections range from Aegean- and Mediterranean-style seafood to Cretan-style mezes and raw fish. The 65-75-YTL fixed-price meal includes rice, salad, your choice of 16 varieties of cold mezes and three kinds of hot mezes (octopus, calamari, or pide—pizza-like pita bread with vegetables and cheese), a fish main course, and a bottomless local beverage—including alcohol (daily 12:00-1:00 in the morning, reservations smart, several blocks south of the Blue Mosque at Keresteci Hakkı 8, tel. 0212/458-2270).

Elsewhere in the Old Town

We've arranged these eateries by neighborhood, handy to the Old Town's various sights.

Near the Mosque of Süleyman the Magnificent

Darüzziyafe, near the main entrance of the Mosque of Süleyman the Magnificent (by the inner courtyard), was once the mosque's soup kitchen. Today, it's a traditional restaurant, well-regarded for its Ottoman-Turkish cuisine. In summer, sit in the tranquil courtyard; in winter, take shelter in the gorgeously decorated, multi-domed dining hall. The meatballs—prepared with crushed pistachios—are particularly good, and the "Süleymaniye soup" with potatoes, carrots, and tiny meatballs will warm your bones on cool days. This is also a good opportunity to sample some unusual Ottoman drinks: şerbet (shehr-beht), boiled fruit juice with sugar added (with various fruit flavors, depending on the season); and ayran (eye-rahn), a diluted, salty yogurt drink. During meals, sultans didn't drink water, but şerbet (, daily 12:00-23:00, good selection of herbal drinks, no alcohol served, reservations smart, Şifahane Sokak 6, tel. 0212/511-8414). If you plan to eat here after visiting the Süleymaniye Mosque, drop in before your mosque visit to reserve.

Kanaat Lokantası, in the mosque's madrassa (old seminary building), has been Istanbul's favorite bean restaurant since 1939. Kuru fasulye (koo-roo fah-sool-yeh) is a staple that's eaten at home at least once a week by every Turkish family. The bean soup is made with dried white beans and pieces of beef or pastrami and served with a side of rice pilaf . After the meal, try the pumpkin dessert. As it's popular with Istanbul University students and neighborhood businesspeople, don't bother calling for a reservation—the staff is so busy they may not pick up the phone. Just drop in (daily 11:00-19:30, cash only, next to fountain and just across from entrance to mosque's outer courtyard at Prof. Sami Öner Sokak 1/5, tel. 0212/520-7655). Other bean joints—not as famous or established, but fine in a pinch—populate the rest of the madrassa.
In or near the Grand Bazaar

Tarihi Subaşı Restaurant is a favorite lunch spot for locals who work in the area. The home-cooked Turkish fare here has won awards. The menu of 50 different entrees includes a flavorful spinach puree (ıspanak püresi; uh-spah-nahk pew-reh-see) and an eggplant and lamb dish (hünkar beğendi; hewn-kahr beh-ehn-dee). Inside, you can see your options and pick out what you want. Squeeze into the small interior, or claim one of the few outdoor tables to enjoy the bazaar bustle ( Mon-Sat 11:00-17:00, closed Sun; by Nuruosmaniye Mosque, just before Grand Bazaar's main door—as you face bazaar's Nuruosmaniye Gate, it's at the end of cobbled street to your right, on right side with Coke sign; tel. 0212/522-4762).

Havuzlu Lokanta, inside the Grand Bazaar, serves a speeded-up version of traditional Ottoman cuisine, with a continually changing menu. Look for the beykoz kebab, prepared with eggplant, veal, mushrooms, and sweet peas. The vast interior can accommodate an army of tourists (it's in all the guidebooks), but the quaint fountainside seating out front keeps you in the midst of the Grand Bazaar action (Mon-Sat 12:00-17:30, closed Sun, look for sign near Şark Kahvesi cafe, Gani Çelebi Sokak 3, tel. 0212/527-3346).

Brothers Restaurant (Kardeşler Restaurant), also inside the Grand Bazaar, sits in a cozy courtyard away from the swirl of shoppers and merchants. Serving up meat and vegetable dishes from southeast Turkey, this place is known for their kaburga dolma (kah-buhr-gah dohl-mah, lamb ribs big enough for two), güveç (gew-vehch, stewed vegetables and veal or lamb in an earthenware pot), and bağırsak dolması (bah-ur-sahk dohl-mah-suh; stuffed intestines—an eastern Turkish specialty). Since the menu changes daily, Veysel or one of the other waiters can tell you about their specialty of the day (no alcohol served, Mon-Sat 8:00-17:00, closed Sun, Astarcı Han Yağlıkçılar 23, tel. 0212/519-3006).

In or near the Spice Market

Pandelli, on the Spice Market's second floor, was started by Chef Pandelli in the 1930s and is open for lunch only. Their mouthwatering traditional Turkish-Ottoman menu includes an especially good eggplant börek. Although the restaurant appears to be overcrowded with businesspeople, they eat quickly, so you won't wait long for a table (Mon-Sat 11:30-16:00, closed Sun, go up tiled staircase just inside Spice Market's main entrance at Eminönü Mısır Çarşısı 1, tel. 0212/527-3909).

Hamdi Restaurant serves a variety of traditional kebabs from southeast Turkey (upper Mesopotamia). Consider their various kebabs: pistachio lamb, grilled eggplant, plum lamb, or grilled garlic lamb. Their delicious beyti (behy-tee) kebab—a mix of barbecued beef and lamb wrapped in thin filo bread—takes longer to make. The wheat pilaf, called firik (fee-reek), is also good. For dessert, try the pistachio katmer or the baklava (daily 11:30-23:30, next to Spice Market, Kalçın Sokak 17, tel. 0212/528-0390). Take the elevator to their crowded third-floor terrace—the views are best from the narrow balcony (if there's an empty table here, grab it).

Near the Chora Church Museum

Asitane, next door to the Chora Church Museum and attached to Kariye Hotel, is a good choice after a tiring museum visit. Their classical Ottoman cuisine replicates dishes served at a banquet in honor of Süleyman the Magnificent's sons. Asitane's mahmudiye (mah-moo-dee-yeh)—chicken with almonds, dried apricots, and raisins—is a tasty concoction you won't find anywhere else. Sit outside on the leafy patio, or in the white-tablecloth-classy dining room. If you plan to have lunch, stop by the restaurant before you visit the Chora Church Museum and let them know when you'll be back ( daily 12:00-15:00 & 19:30-22:00, reservations a must for dinner, Kariye Camii Yanı, Cami Sokak 18, Edirnekapı, tel. 0212/635-7997).

In the New District, on and near İstiklal Street

All of these eateries are on or within a short stroll of İstiklal street.

Asmalımescit Balıkçısı, close to the Tünel subway stop at the Galata end of istiklal street, was recently named the best seafood meyhane (tavern) in the city. Stick around on Friday and Saturday nights for live music ( Mon-Fri 12:00-14:00 & 18:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 18:00-24:00, Sofyalı Sokak, 5-1 Tünel, tel. 0212/251-3939).

Rejans Restaurant has been serving up authentic Russian food—including dishes favored by the czars—for nearly a century. They also make their own vodka—try some for 6 YTL a glass (daily 12:00-15:00 8c 18:00-1:00 in the morning, Emir Nevruz Sokak 17, tel. 0212/243-3882). For more on the history of this venerable place, see page 108.

Çiçek Pasajı ("Flower Passage") is not one restaurant, but a row of seafood places in a historic, beautifully restored passage on Istikal street. The 10 restaurants are mostly interchangeable, with similar value and quality. In the evening, some have live music, usually traditional Istanbul songs. While there are better-value and more genuinely local restaurants nearby, the Flower Passage eateries boast the most genteel late-19th-century atmosphere around (daily 12:00-24:00, İstiklal Caddesi). For more on the history of the passage, see page 105.
 
Cumhuriyet Meyhanesi ("Republic Tavern") is as old as the Republic—Turkey's founder, Atatürk, was a regular. This place has worked hard to keep its reputation for quality and class. The best ambience is in the upstairs room, or at the few outdoor tables. In the evenings, enjoy the live Turkish music (daily 9:00-2:00 in the morning, in the Fish Market off İstiklal street at Balıkpazarı Sahne Sokak 47, tel. 0212/243-6406).

Hacı Abdullah is a dressy, formal-feeling restaurant just off istiklal street. Their specialty is Özel Hacı Abdullah Tabağı ("Abdullah's Special Hacı Platter"), loaded down with eggplant kebab, lamb shanks, and two other kebabs—enough food for two (28 YTL). Also good are the quince desserts with honey and bananas topped with water-buffalo cream, and the fresh pomegranate juice from eastern Turkey (daily 11:00-22:30, closed until sundown during Ramadan, no alcohol served, extra charge for water and bread, 10 percent service charge added to bill, near Ağa Mosque at Sakız Ağacı Sokak 17, tel. 0212/293-8561).

Limonlu Bahçe, next to Galatasaray High School a few minutes from istiklal street, is a pleasant cafe with a garden and a fireplace to warm you up on cold days. Try the mantı (mahn-tuh), a tiny steamed dumpling stuffed with meat, onions, and spices (daily in summer 9:30-1:00 in the morning, daily in winter 10:30-24:00,10 percent discount weekdays 12:00-14:00, Yeniçarşı Sokak 98, tel. 0212/252-1094).

Hacı Baba Restaurant offers traditional Turkish-Ottoman cuisine with outdoor seating on a terrace overlooking the Aya Triada Church, or in the nondescript dining room. Consider the 14-YTL kuzu tandır, lamb cooked in an earthenware oven; the 12-YTL patlıcanlı kuzu incik buğulama, steamed lamb shanks with eggplant; or the kaymaklı ekmek kadayıfı, a spongy dessert served with water-buffalo cream (daily 12:00-24:00, extra charge for water and bread, istiklal Caddesi 49, there's another entrance right by the gate to the church, tel. 0212/245-3382).

Bostana Restaurant is a small, friendly place filled with addicted regulars. The Armenian chef prepares healthy Mediterranean food and rare examples of Armenian cuisine such as topik (toh-peek), a pouch of boiled and mashed chickpeas filled with onions and spices; and babahanuş (bah-bah-hah-noosh), a mix of grilled eggplant, eggs, and spices. Check out the freshly made soup of the day and the hearty salads, big enough to be a light meal. The friendly manager, Alişir, is happy to explain the menu (daily 11:00-23:00, on a little lane behind İstiklal street, Utarit Sokak 4, tel. 0212/292-5109). It's a bit tricky to find: From Taksim Square, head down İstiklal street, take the first right, then turn left after the WCs, then take the first right.

Otantik Anadolu Yemekleri is a recently opened restaurant that quickly turned into a chain. It serves traditional Anatolian food, representing different ethnic groups living within Turkey. This offers a great opportunity to affordably sample several flavors from around the country. Watch as the costumed cooks prepare gözleme (gohz-leh-meh), flat bread cooked on a convex steel sheet (3.50-4 YTL, the filled versions are big enough for a light meal). Hingal (huhn-gahl) is a Caucasian dish with potato-filled steamed dumplings. İçli köfte (eech-lee kohf-teh) is a Mesopotamian bulgur pouch filled with meat, onions, and spices. The handy photo menu makes ordering easy, and the four floors of seating ensure that there's plenty of space (daily 9:00-24:00, next door to entrance to Flower Passage at İstiklal Caddesi 170, tel. 0212/293-8451).

Taksim Sütiş, while technically a "pudding shop," is a time-warp cafeteria serving everything from puddings to omelets to döner kebab. Among their famous puddings, tavuk göğüsü (tah-vook gooh-sew) stands out. It's made with finely shredded chicken breast, but doesn't taste like chicken at all. Su böreği (soo boh-reh-ee), a pastry made with sheets of hand-rolled dough, is boiled before being baked. Locals love the baklava and rice pilaf with chicken. On a cold day, try the sahlep (sah-lehp), a warm, creamy sweet drink made with the powdered roots of wild Taurus mountain orchids and served with cinnamon. The photo menu is convenient, but you can also just walk up to the display case and point to what you want (daily 6:00-1:00 in the morning, İstiklal Caddesi 13, tel. 0212/251-3270).

Zencefil Café, a few minutes off İstiklal street, is a vegetarian restaurant also frequented by carnivores for their appetizing and healthy food. The menu of freshly grown products changes with the season. It also offers pomegranate, blueberry, and cherry fruit wines (daily 10:30-22:30, 10 percent service charge added to bill, Kurabiye Sokak 3—a lane that runs parallel to İstiklal street, tel. 0212/243-8234).

Ara Café is owned by Ara Güler, a renowned Turkish-Armenian photographic artist. The café is a popular place to see and be seen, and attracts intellectuals, yuppies, and models. Grab a table outdoors in nice weather, or opt for the cozy split-level interior (daily 8:00-24:00, between post office and İstiklal street at Tosbağa Sokak 8/A, tel. 0212/245-4105).

Fesleğen Café, with hip decor, offers a variety that can please nearly any palate, ranging from pasta and falafel to salad and crepes. Wash it all down with fresh carrot, melon, or apple juice. Enjoy the outdoor seating on the alley out front, or climb the spiral staircase up to the two floors of indoor seating (daily 9:00-2:00 in the morning, no alcohol served, 10 percent service charge added to bill, just off İstiklal street at Küçükparmakkapı Sokak 40, tel. 0212/251-2604).

Café Gramafon, next to the Tünel station at the end of İstiklal street (nearer the Golden Horn), has a youthful, modern, international-café ambience. The eclectic kitchen serves a bit of Turkish, a little Italian, and some American favorites as well (brownies and cheesecakes). Come in for live quality jazz music several nights a week, or use their Internet connection during the day (daily 8:00-2:00 in the morning, Tünel Meydanı 3, tel. 0212/293-4615).