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alaTurka Hazine Sokak 8, Ortakoy, 34349 Tel (0212)258 79 24 Tucked away on a side street near Ortakoy mosque, a la Turka is a modest but attractive restaurant. It serves mostly classic Turkish dishes done to perfection. Particularly good are the dolma (stuffed vine leaves), and the chef uses herbs very creatively. It is recommended as a reliable favourite. Beyti Orman Sokak 8, Florya, 34710 Tel (0212) 663 29 92 Beyti is a 60-year-old Istanbul institution and award-winning legend when it comes to meat and kebabs. There is a vast dining area, with 12 dining rooms and secluded nooks. It is crowded here for lunch and dinner and the good service matches the unerringly excellent food. Beyti kebab is the speciality. There is a good wine selection Bol kepçe Muallim Naci Caddesi 41/9, Ortaköy, 34349 Tel (0212) 259 82 61 Eating at Bolkepçe Is like eating in your own home. The hand-made curtains and hospitality reflect the home-cooked dishes that have made this place so popular. They routinely serve traditional hearty Turkish dishes, grills and stews, and are known for their mantı (ravioli) and tasty böreks (stuffed pastry parcels). Da Mario Dilhayat Sokak 7, Etiler, 56730 Tel (0212) 265 15 96 This was one of Istanbul's first Italian restaurants and is still recognized for its refined and tasty cuisine. The upmarket chic decor is in harmony with the contemporary cooking. Veal is especially well prepared. There are some interesting wines. Super desserts and impeccable service round it off. Reservations are advised. II Piccolo Bağdat Caddesi, Ogün Sokak 2, Caddebostan, 95230 Tel (0216) 369 64 43 An established favourite that has been serving well-cooked dishes for many years and keeping up with trends. Located in an energetic shopping district on the Asian side, meals are served outdoors in summer and a live band plays on weekends. They have simple pizzas and pasta dishes with great sauces plus good wines and Italian cheeses. Koşebaşı Ocakbaşı Çamlık Sokak 15/3, Levent, Tel (0212) 270 24 33 This internationally-acclaimed prize-winning kebab restaurant has many branches around Turkey and in Istanbul. Bright and airy with absolutely delicious kebabs in the tradition of eastern Turkey. They prepare künefe (a rich angel hair dessert baked with cheese) better than anybody in Istanbul. Zeyrekhane Sinanağa Mahallesi, İbadethane Arkası Sokak 10, Zeyrek, Fatih, 35600 Tel (0212) 532 27 78 This café for tasty snacks and light meals is combined with a restaurant in a restored Ottoman building. The cool, leafy outdoor courtyard is used in summer. The main restaurant succeeds spectacularly with traditional Ottoman ' recipes. Alcohol is served. It is best to make a booking for an evening meal. Develi Gümuşyüzük Sokak 7, Samatya, Kocamustafapaşa, 35420 Tel (0212) 632 79 82 It is no exaggeration to say that you have not really eaten a kebab until you have tucked into a Develi one. Kebabs here are prepared in unusual ways and the quality keeps getting better. The service is slick and all the touches that make dining a great experience are found here. Develi easily tops the kebab charts. House Cafe Salhane Sokak 1, Ortakoy, 34349 Tel (0212) 227-26 99 There are no restaurants that epitomize Istanbul's dynamic revival quite like this one. The colourful salads, snacks and main courses are excellent and the funky decor is amazing, especially the ornately carved bar and octopus chandeliers. It is a magnet for celebrities and always busy. Hünkar Akdeniz Caddesi 21, Fatih, 35600 Tel (0212) 621 64 33 This family-run restaurant has an admirable record for serving tasty Turkish food, including delightful and little known Ottoman dishes. The walls are decorated with jars of bright pickled fruits and a small fountain sits in the midst of diners. Boreks (stuffed pastry parcels), kófte (meatballs), pilavs (rice dishes) and salads are well prepared and served. Denizkızı Çakmaktaşı Sokak 3/5, Kumkapi, 28601 Tel (0212)518 86 59 The cobbled streets of the old fishing neighbourhood of Kumkapi are dense with fish restaurants and meyhanes (traditional taverns). Denizkızı (which means mermaid) is one of these in a lively district. Diners select fish from the tank and the chef will fry, grill or steam it for you with vegetables. There are tables outdoors in summer. Doğa Balık Akarsu Caddesi 46, Cihangir, Taksim, 34433 Tel (0212) 293 91 44 This Is a highly regarded fish restaurant in an attractive area. Everything is friendly and comfortable here. Mezes are freshly prepared and colourful, and there is a daily set menu available. The salads are masterful. Domestic wines are available but rakı goes best with the many fish selections. Salatelia Galata Köprüsü, KaraköyAltı (Boğaz Tarafı) 11/12, Eminönü, 34120 Tel (0212) 243 82 54 This is Istanbul's premier fish and seafood restaurant beneath the Galata Bridge. The prices for daily specials and fresh catch are great and there is a generous selection of home-made mezes, salads, wine and rakı. Locals flock here and you may be the only tourist. Gypsy music is played on weekends. It is highly recommended for authenticity. Hacıbey Teşvikiye Caddesi 156/B, Teşvikiye, 8O400 Tel(0212)231 71 34 A bright and modern restaurant on two floors, Hacibey caters to shoppers and ladies who lunch in Istanbul's shopping district. Try the succulent and substantial Bursa kebab, which has butter, tomato sauce and is topped with yoghurt. All grills are done over traditional charcoal. It is great fun here but can be very loud. ta Maison Müvezzi Caddesi 63, Beşiktaş, 82500 Tel (0212) 227 42 63 This is a thoroughly reliable and no-nonsense restaurant with a studious attitude to classical French cooking, enhanced by splendid vistas over the Bosphorus to the Asian side. La Maison is just as popular for power lunches as it is for receptions and intimate dining. It is hugely popular, so a reservation is essential. Mezzaluna Abdi İpekçi Caddesi 38/1, Nişantaşı, 80400 Tel (0212) 231 31 42 Mezzaluna attracts shoppers and strollers at lunch and a serious social set in the evenings. With branches in other Turkish cities also, they cater for the upwardly mobile who crave well-cooked continental dishes. The accent is on Italian cooking and the mussels are first rate. Finish a refined meal with a potent grappa. CaféduLevent Rahmi M. Koç Museum, Hasköy Caddesi 27, Hasköy, 69800 Tel (0212) 235 63 28 Long before others, Café du Levent initiated the trend for serving gourmet food in a museum setting. The standards have not changed over the years and this is one of the most efficient restaurants in Istanbul. It is not cheap but it is worth paying for this calibre of inspired cooking, with Turkish touches and global influences. Divan Elmadağ Caddesi 2, Elmadağ, Taksim, 80090 Tel (0212)2314100 Do not be put off by the drab 1950s edifice as its austere appearance belies inner luxury. Local people who want to celebrate a special occasion often make reservations here. The menu is extensive and the cooking is done to perfection. Bookings are essential. Halat Cafe Rahmi M. Koç Museum Kumbarhane Caddesi 2, Hasköy, 69800 Tel (0212) 297 66 44 Halat Cafe boasts French cooking with whimsical Mediterranean touches and flavours. The steak is a top choice and the separate dessert menu features flamboyant, highly original masterpieces. This restaurant offers memorable dining with the Golden Horn lapping below its terrace. Sedef Fevzipaşa Caddesi 19, Fatih, 35600 Tel (212) 532 82 33 This is a bright and spacious restaurant that prides Itself on its meat dishes. Grilled meats are the most popular but do not overlook the delicious vegetable stews. The chef does great things with hamburgers and, of course, kebabs. Children's portions are available. Like most establishments in the Fatih area, alcohol is not served. Uludağ Et Lokantası Istanbul Caddesi 12, Florya, 34710 Tel (0212) 579 02 94 One of several well respected kebaberies in Istanbul, this one also serves up its own local kebab specialty. The restaurant is on the waterfront, not far from the airport, and has space for over 1,000 guests. Come here for a typical Turkish evening and unfailingly good food. The service is smart and the wines reasonable. Asitane Kariye Hotel, Kariye Camii Sokak 18, Edirnekapı, 38100 Tel (0212) 534 84 14 This is an outstanding eatery specializing in Ottoman cuisine. They serve some rare and obscure recipes inspired by records found in the Topkapi Palace. Steaks, fish and creative rice dishes are also on offer. Save room for the filling desserts Asitane is highly recommended. Şans Haa Adil Caddesi 6, Aralik, Leverrt Tel (0212) 280 38 38 Visitors to Sans love the cozy atmosphere and restful garden. Jans, in fact, leaves nothing to chance and is an award-winning restaurant serving crisp Mediterranean dishes. The menu changes frequently but favourites such as spinach roots endure The outstanding wine list is selected from around the world.
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