Istanbul has been an unrivaled locus of cultural activity since its beginnings 

more than 26 centuries ago.  As you may know, the city now known as Istanbul has had

three different names: first, it was known as the Greek colony Byzantium, followed by

Constantinople (after A.D. 330) and Istanbul (after 1453).  A basic understanding of

Turkey and Istanbul's long and storied history, including its role as the capitol of the

Roman and Ottoman empires, as well as Atatürk's role in the creation of modern (post-

1923) Turkey will greatly enhance your trip.

You can easily spend 3 or 4 days exploring the sights of Istanbul alone.  The

city is very easy to negotiate and you can walk to most of the major sights.  A map is a

must and the ones in Lonely Planet are excellent.  Most of the museums in Istanbul

charge an admission fee.  The following is my recommended list of must-see sights:

Topkapı Palace (pronounced Tope-cop-uh, not Topekap-ee) – For nearly 400 years the Topkapı Palace

was the principle home of the Ottoman Sultans that ruled the  Ottoman Empire.  Today, the palace is a

vast museum complex.  Be sure to obtain the separate ticket to see the Harem first thing in the

morning before the crowds arrive.  Don't miss seeing the Prophet Mohammed's tooth and a hair from his

beard.

Aya Sofia (aka Hagia Sophia or St. Sophia) – This building is one of the greatest architectural creations

in history.  Built as a church by Byzantine emperor Justinian in 535 it became a mosque during the

Ottoman conquest in 1453.  To avoid  controversy, Atatürk designated the Aya Sofia as a museum.

The entrance fee to the Aya Sofia was recently increased to about US $15.00.

Sinan's Hamam – After visiting the Aya Sophia be sure to visit the Hamam (Turkish bath) built by the

famous architect Sinan for Sultan Suleyman the Magnificant’s wife.  The building is located about 100

yards southwest of the Aya Sophia (on the edge of Sultanahmet Park).  Although it is no longer used as a

Turkish bath the building is absolutely stunning.  The building is now used by the Turkish Ministry of Culture

as a carpet bazaar and gives you the chance of simultaneously exploring an interesting building and

looking at carpets.  While you probably don't want to buy a carpet in this place (see the discussion of

carpet buying below), unlike most carpet stores the prices of the carpets are indicated in YTL and you can

get an idea of the price ranges of carpets that you may want to purchase elsewhere.

Blue Mosque – Also known as the Sultan Ahmet Camii (Camii, pronounced ja-MEE, means mosque in

Turkish).  This mosque with six minarets, was built in the 17th century receives its name from the

magnificent blue and white Iznik tiles located inside.  You cannot enter the mosque during prayer time,

which occurs five times a day.  When entering, you must leave your shoes outside and wear conservative

attire.  Entrance is free, but donations are accepted.

Mosaic Museum – If want to see some beautiful Byzantine mosaics, there is a small mosaic museum located

just to the west of the shopping area known as the Arasta Bazaar located below the Blue Mosque.

Archeological Museum – This museum, located across from the Topkapı Palace contains spectacular

examples from all eras of Turkish civilization.  Don't miss the large chain that was used to keep out boats

from the entrance to the Golden Horn.

Hippodrome – The grassy area located across from the Blue Mosque is the location of the ancient

Hippodrome, where chariot races took place.  It is now a park, with a remarkably well-preserved

Egyptian obelisk.

Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art – Located across the Hippodrome from the Blue Mosque, this

wonderful museum contains a vast display of Islamic art and an incredible collection of antique carpets.

Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Saray) – This is a must see.  This Byzantine cistern was one of the highlights

of Istanbul and is one of the most spectacular places I have seen in the world.  This underground columned

area was the water source for Istanbul in ancient times.  It is located across from the Hippodrome near

the Aya Sophia and is a pleasant escape from Istanbul's summer heat.

Grand Bazaar (also known as the Covered Bazaar)–(Kapalı Çarsı, pronounced kapallah charshe,

in Turkish.).  The Grand Bazaar is purportedly the largest market in the world (supposedly there are

more than 4,000 shops. How this number was determined is anyone's guess).  Your best bet here is

to buy Turkish ceramics.  The book bazaar, located outside the West side of the Grand Bazaar, is also

worth a visit.  On your right on the way from the Blue Mosque to the grand bazaar (at the corner of Divan

Yolu) is a unique cemetery with a building containing the tombs of several sultans.  This is very interesting

and worth a visit.  Don't forget that the grand bazaar is closed on Sundays, so plan your shopping

accordingly.  In the past, there were only a few places to eat or drink.  However, recently a number of small

cafes have opened that serve as a nice refuge from the hustle and bustle of the Grand Bazaar.  Most of

the cafes, such as CafeIst and Fez Café are located on Takkeciler Sokak, in the center of the bazaar,

between the fountains just outside the Old Bazaar.

Important note:  The Grand Bazaar is only open Monday through Saturday and closes at

approximately 6 p.m.

Suleymaniye Camii – Mosque of Suleyman the Magnificent.  This spectacular building was built by

Sinan, the famous Turkish architect.  Be sure to see Suleyman's tomb located in the building next to the

mosque.

Egyptian (Spice) Market – Located across from the Eminonu docks near the New Mosque (or Yeni

Camii).  You will drive by this place countless times during your visit.  This is the place to buy the famous

Turkish sweet known as Turkish delight (lokum, in Turkish ).  Outside the back entrance are several

streets with more shops, including a shop that sells Turkish coffee beans, called Mehmet Efendi.  Look for

the line of people and the speedy guy who takes the money.  This is worth a look and is the place to buy

Turkish coffee to take home.  There is also a wellknown restaurant called Pandeli above the main

entrance of the Egyptian Market.  Frankly, I think the restaurant is past its prime and is overrated.

Kariye Muzesi (also known as the Kariye Camii or Church of St. Saviour in Chora) –This is another

must see place located off the beaten track in the western part of the old city near the city walls.  You

will need to take a taxi to visit the Kariye Muzesi, which is an 11th century Byzantine church, later

turned into a mosque and subsequently into a museum.  The Kariye Museum has some of the most

wonderfully restored frescos and mosaics anywhere.  While you are in the neighborhood, it is worth seeing

Constantine's palace, a shell of a Byzantine palace that looks like a ruin is supposed to look.  There is a

neighborhood lady who takes care of the infrequent tourist and, of course, is happy to charge you to enter

a place that has no admission fee.

Dolmabahçe Palace – This remarkable Europeanstyle palace was home to the Turkish Sultans after

Topkapı.  Dolmabahçe (pronounced Dolma-ba-chay) is located on the Bosphorus in the Beşiktas area below

the Swissotel.  The Beylerbeyi Palace, which was the Sultan’s summer home, is also worth a visit.

However, the Beylerbeyi Palace is located below the first bridge on the Asian side of Istanbul and is a bit

difficult to get to.

Bosphorus boat trip to Anadolu Kavağı – The small town of Anadolu Kavağı (pronounced Ka-VAK)

is located north of Istanbul on the Asian side of the Bosphorus, near the entrance to the Black Sea.

Anadolu Kavağı is well known for its fish restaurants.  This town is the northern terminus of the Bosphorus

ferry boat that leaves the Eminonu pier (across from the Egyptian spice market -- look for the sign Bogaz

Hattı) around 9:30 a.m. and takes about 1 hour each way (The round trip fare is about $1)  The ferry

returns to Istanbul at around 3 p.m.  There is a medieval castle above the town that offers

spectacular views of the Black Sea.  This trip takes most of the day and your enjoyment will be dependent

on the weather.  This trip should be avoided on cold or rainy days.

Military Museum (Askeri Muze) – If you have some extra time, this overwhelmingly large museum is

definitely worth a trip.  It is located in Harbiye, just down the road from the Hilton Hotel.  Don't miss the

Ottoman Empire tent exhibit and the Atatürk collection.  A band that plays Ottoman-Empire era

military marching music, known as Mehtar, plays on a daily basis.

Naval Museum (Deniz Muze) – This museum, located in Beşiktas, just down the road from the

Çirağan Palace Hotel is also worth a trip for history buffs.  This museum has very interesting displays on

the history of the Ottoman Empire's navy.  In the main building are numerous items from Atatürk’s yacht,

naval uniforms from various eras, and beautifully constructed models of Turkish naval vessels.  The

most impressive part of this museum, however, is located in the annex building through the courtyard.

In this building are several Caiques, long-wooden rowboats that were used to carry the Sultans during

ceremonies.  These Caiques are elaboratelydecorated and are an impressive sight.  Located

halfway between the main building and the annex is a newly constructed display recounting the voyage of a

Turkish couple around the world in their 8.5 meter sailboat.  The boat, and photos from their voyage, is

on display.

Rahmi M. Koç Museum (pronounced Coach Museum) - Another worthwhile trip is to the Rahmi M.

Koç Museum, the first major museum in Turkey dedicated to the history of Transport, Industry and

Communications.  Founded by Rahmi Koç, the former CEO of the Koç Group, one of Turkey's leading

industrial groups, this new museum is located in magnificent industrial buildings on the Eastern shore

of the Golden Horn.  The museum's collection contains thousands of items from gramophone

needles to full size ships and aircraft.  The museum has a great collection of historic automobiles.  Don't

miss the restored railroad car that was used by Sultan Abul Aziz during his tour of Europe in 1867.

Also,there is a nice French bistro with outside seating called Café du Levant.  The Koç museum is located in

Haskoy, about a 15 minutes taxi ride from Taksim.

(djacobsonlaw.com)