Istanbul is a frenetic city  with a wealth of culture, history and nightlife. Split in I wo by the Bosphorous Strait, it is the only city in the world to straddle two continents, Europe and Asia, and thus has two contrasting atmospheres.

DAY 1

SHOPPING AND SEAFOOD
• Refresh your senses in the Spice Bazaar
• Shop for antiques in Çukurcuma
• Haggle in the Grand Bazaar
• Enjoy the buzz on Nevizade Sokak

Morning
The Spice Bazaar is a riot of colour, stalls and smells, where you can buy any number of exotic foodstuffs, including handmade Turkish delight and creamy goals' cheese. From here, head up lo the bustling Grand Bazaar I, a labyrinthine Ottoman shopping complex housing thousands of  lealher, rug, ceramics and jewellery shops Prices are inflaled and price tags often absent altogether  so  remember  to bargain All this shopping is bound lo whel your appelile, so head for the waterfront district of Kumpkapi, where you will find more than 50 fish restaurants vying for your attention. Again, many outlets do not display prices, so ask before you order.

Afternoon
Revived and restored, take a taxi to the Galata Bridge and stroll over to trendy Tunel and Beyoglu , soaking up the view as you go. Take time to browse around the cosy cafés and bars in Tunel, before making your way up îstiklâl Cadessi  to shop for clothes, shoes, books and music. Further up, the district of Çukurcuma  is a hunting ground for antique furniture and ornaments. Nevizade Sokak, just off Istiklâl Cadessi, is a narrow street lined with dozens of meyhanes  The area really comes alive at night, when hundreds of locals flock here and passers-by are serenaded by traditional musicians.

DAY 2

A FAMILY DAY OUT
• See Istanbul in miniature
• A boat trip to Büyükada
• A horse-drawn carriage ride around Büyükada

Morning
Catch a bus from Taksim Square to Miniatürk  located in Sütlüce on the northern shore of the Golden Horn . The park displays miniatures of the city's most famous sights, such as Haghia Sophia , as well as other treasures from around the country that reflect Turkey's rich heritage. There is also a children's park and a museum showcasing photographs of Atatürk, the great Turkish leader of the early 20th century, and the wars in Gallipoli. When you get hungry, head to Miniatürk's attractive café-restaurant that overlooks the Golden Horn.

Afternoon
Head back to Istanbul after lunch and hop on a boat bound for the island of Büyükada, one of the nine that make up the Princes' Islands. It is a one-and-a-half hour trip from the docks at Eminönü, so there is plenty of time to admire the view as Istanbul recedes on the horizon. Once you have landed, stroll around the main square of Saat Meydani or take a horse-drawn carriage ride around the island. Climb the hill to St George's Monastery for panoramic views and a meal at the hilltop restaurant.

DAY 3

MOSQUES, MUSEUMS AND HAMAMS
• Byzantine iconography at Haghia Sophia
• Glimpse the past at the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts
• An awe-inspiring visit to Topkapi Palace

Morning
Start at the Blue Mosque , perhaps Istanbul's most elegant Islamic sight, famous for its slender minarets and blue Iznik tiles. Stroll through the well-tended garden at the front before making your way to imposing Haghia Sophia , another of Istanbul's most renowned mosques. Inside is a marvellous array of Byzantine mosaics, friezes and Iznik blue tile decorations, as well as a huge domed ceiling. Then head to the nearby Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts , which has a wonderful collection of glass and metalwork, carpets and manuscripts from down the centuries, as well as modern art from Turkey and overseas. Head to Yesil Ev  for lunch, a lovely Ottoman-style restaurant between the museum and Topkapt Palace, serving traditional fare.

Afternoon
You will need at least three hours to appreciate Topkapi Palace, a sprawling complex of courtyards, gardens, fountains, a harem and a collection of priceless antiques. Then, at the end of a long day, indulge in that most Turkish of pleasures, a visit to a Turkish bath . Cemberlitas Baths  in Sultanahmet is one of the finest.

DAY 4

UP THE BOSPHORUS
• A boat up the Bosphorus
• Enjoy views at Fortress of Europe
• Stroll through the pretty village of Bebek

Morning
Catch a bus from Taksim Square or Eminönü bus terminus heading for Sarıyer
or Emirgan and get off at Arnavutkoy on the Bosphorous. There are some lovingly restored Ottoman houses and mansions to admire here, most of them painted in pastel shades and trimmed with intricate wooden fretwork. Cafes line the back streets, so sit and linger over a coffee and a pastry. From Arnavutkoy, continue walking northwards, past the fishing boats and pleasure cruisers bobbing on the water, until you reach Bebek, one of Istanbul's most affluent villages. There are more than enough chic clothes and antiques shops here to tempt visitors to part with their cash and work up an appetite for lunch. Dine in style at the Poseidon. Here you can sip an aperitif and enjoy the splendid view before savouring the menu of fresh fish.

Afternoon
Delve into history at the imposing Fortress of Europe, built in the 15th century as part of the Muslim conquest of Constantinople. There is also a fantastic view of the Bosphorus from here. Afterwards, walk around the delightful 19th-century pavilions of nearby Emirgan Parkwith its hundreds of pine, fir and cypress trees and an ornamental lake. ( s1 )