 As the boat turns towards Asia, from the left side you can enjoy a great view of the Bosphorus opening into the Black Sea. Even the casual tourist senses the dark, foreboding aura of this zone. Wind and rainstorms can gather here within minutes, even in the middle of summer.
Up the shore on the European side are some extremely dangerous hidden rocks that have long plagued navigators. If you know the tale of Jason and the Argonauts, you may remember the "Clashing Rocks" (or Symplegades) the crew encountered as they sailed into the Black Sea. These rocks of legend are believed by some to be based on this stretch of the Bosphorus. In Jason's time, the rocks would dangerously lunge toward each other, demolishing any boats that tried to pass. To make it through, the Argonauts let loose a dove, which was guided by their goddess Athena, and led them to safety. After this, the rocks stopped clashing, but remained a potentially destructive obstacle. Byzantine emperors erected a huge column here to warn passing ships. It worked...except when thick fog made this part of the Bosphorus nearly impossible to navigate. It's still difficult today, even with electronic gear.
ANADOLU KAVAĞI
Welcome to Asia: the small fishing village of Anadolu Kavağı (ah-nah-doh-loo kah-vah-uh). Anadolu comes from the Greek word anatoli, meaning "the land to the East," while kavak means "controlled pass." From Byzantine times to the present, this has been a strategic checkpoint for vessels going through the Bosphorus. As you approach the Asian side, watch for the Byzantine Yoros Castle that dominates the hilltop above the village. Below that, notice the modern military installations: The area between here and the Black Sea is a restricted-access zone.
The ferry takes a break here in Anadolu Kavağı, usually for an hour and a half (sometimes longer, up to three hours). Look for the scheduled departure time posted near the dock, or ask the attendant what time to be back. Make a point of arriving back at the boat at least 10 minutes before the departure time—or earlier, if you want to secure a prime seat for the return trip.
Planning Your Time: Anadolu Kavağı has two main activities: eating lunch or hiking up to Yoros Castle. If you're speedy or have a longer break (2-3 hours), you'll probably be able to squeeze in both; if you'd like a more leisurely experience, choose one. (Both options are described below.)
Overland Return to Istanbul: Don't miss the boat. But if you do, you can either take a taxi back to Istanbul (figure 60 YTL), or use the bus. You can catch the bus at the town center, a block straight ahead from the ferry port. Begin by taking bus #15A (Anadolu Kavağı-Kavacık) to the Körfez (Beykoz) stop. From there you have two options. You can either take bus #15 or #15P to Üsküdar (on the Asian side), where you can catch a ferry back to Eminönü in the Old Town; or you can take a ferry or bus #101 to Beşiktaş in the New District (on the European side).
Eating in Anadolu KavağıAnadolu Kavağı is made-to-order for enjoying a leisurely lunch. The town is packed with down-to-earth restaurants that cater to Bosphorus cruise passengers—both international tourists and Istanbul residents who come up here for a nice meal on the weekends. As you step off the boat, the streets just ahead of you and for two blocks to the left are filled with nothing but restaurants. (The path leading up to the castle is also lined with eateries, but the quality up there isn't as reliably high.)
The specialty is seafood, of course. You can find a wide range of fish straight out of the strait . Most eateries advertise midye tava (meed-yeh tah-vah)—deep-fried mussels. Popular all over Istanbul, these are mussels dipped in batter and deep-fried, and served with tarator (tah-rah-tohr) sauce—made from bread, crushed fresh garlic, lemon juice, yogurt, olive oil, salt, and vinegar. Upscale restaurants sometimes add crushed walnuts to the mix. Fried calamari is also common, but beware: It's not native to Istanbul, and is usually frozen, not fresh.
Before settling in, ignore the hawkers and stroll around to find the place that looks best. Most of the cheaper eateries sell a fixed-price meal for about 15 YTL that includes grilled fish, fried mussels, French fries, salad, bread, and a drink. Fancier restaurants have a wider (and more expensive) menu. If you opt to go â la carte, one portion of midye tava can be a light meal. For about 25 YTL, two people can get two portions of midye tava, two drinks, and split a fresh fish filet.Other options include sandwiches, salads, pide (pee-deh;Turkish pizza), kebabs, and even waffles, although your options may be limited in the off-season (late Oct-late April). For dessert, try the lokma (lohk-mah) advertised by stalls and restaurants. This is a crispier version of a donut hole, made by dipping wheat dumplings into hot syrup. Locals love it, and have been known to travel to Anadolu Kavağı just for fresh-cooked lokma. Yosun Restaurant, to your immediate left as you stand with the ferry dock at your back, has a lokma stand at the corner.
The grocery store and the bakery are good options to pick up supplies for a people-watching picnic on a bench in the square, or to munch up at the castle. To find the bakery, follow the narrow street straight ahead from the port. The bakery is on the other side of the intersecting street, just before the parking lot. The grocery store is past the parking lot. The bakery's specialty is anchovy bread (hamsili ekmek; hahm-see-lee ehk-mehk)—a Black Sea delicacy made with corn flour, leeks, tomatoes, fresh peppers, and fresh anchovies. (s3)
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