In addition to separating two continents, the Bosphorus Strait serves as Istanbul's main highway. A never-ending stream of vessels—from little fishing dinghies to gigantic rusted oil tankers to luxury cruise ships—sails up and down this strategic corridor, day in and day out. Churning ship engines and clanging horns are Istanbul's constant soundtrack. Cruising the Bosphorus—a experience—is the best way to appreciate the massive size and scale of 15-million-strong Istanbul, and a convenient way to see many of its outlying landmarks. And since virtually all of Istanbul's key attractions are on the European side, a cruise may be your easiest opportunity to set foot in Asia (the last stop is the fishing village of Anadolu Kavağı, on the Asian side).
In Turkish, the Bosphorus is Boğaziçi (boh-ahz-ee-chee), which means "pass" or "strait." This 19-mile-long waterway curves like a snake as it connects the Black Sea in the north with the Sea of Marmara and—eventually—the Mediterranean to the south. Istanbul's various districts line up along the bays, and the coastline is peppered with cute villages. Many of these settlements, once separate communities, have been incorporated into Istanbul as the town sprawled from north to south over the last several decades. Today Istanbul extends pretty much all the way up to the Black Sea. But a few neighborhoods in the north retain a village-like quality, where the men still fish for a living.
The Turks view the Bosphorus as much more than just a body of water—to them, it's a privilege. For locals, sitting on a bench by the Bosphorus and watching the beautiful scenery as a United Nations of boats drifts past makes for a good day.

ORIENTATION

The best way to cruise the Bosphorus is by public ferry, which leaves from the Golden Horn on the Old Town side (details below). The following cost, hours, and other information apply to a day-long cruise on the public ferry. For a shorter version of this cruise, consider a private tour operator (see "Private Tours," below).  Get the round-trip ticket. There's little sense in taking the cruise one-way; options for coming back overland from Anadolu Kavağı are limited and expensive. The round-trip ticket gives you the option of coming all the way back to Eminönü, or hopping off early to see other outlying sights on your way back to town (see "Sarıyer Shortcut," below). Sailing Schedule: The ferry runs mid-June-mid-Sept at 10:35, 12:00, and 13:35; mid-April-mid-June at 10:35 and 12:00; and mid-Sept-mid-April at 10:35 only. As the schedule can change, it's smart to confirm these times before you plan your day (your hotelier may be able to help, or drop by the dock ahead of time to check). When to Go: We prefer the 10:35 departure, which puts you in Anadolu Kavağı just in time for lunch, and gets you back to Istanbul early enough for a little evening sightseeing. If you're in Istanbul for several days, check the forecast and plan your cruise when there's good weather. Getting There: The public ferry leaves from the Bosphorus ferry port (Boğaz İskelesi; boh-ahz ees-keh-leh-see) in the Old Town's Eminönü district. This is near the mouth of the Golden Horn on the Old Town peninsula, along the embankment next to the Galata Bridge. Consider combining that walk with this cruise.
To reach the ferry landing from the Old Town, take the tram toward Kabataş and get off at Eminönü. When you emerge from the pedestrian underpass, look for the ferry terminal building marked Boğaz iskelesi.
To reach the ferry from Taksim Square in the New District, you can either walk or take the "nostalgic tram" down İstiklal street to Tünel, then take the Tünel subway down to Karaköy at the Galata Bridge. Walk across the bridge and turn left along the embankment to find the ferry terminal marked Boğaz İskelesi. Alternatively, you can ride the funicular down the hill from Taksim Square to Kabataş, and take the tram from there to Eminönü. Cruise Route: The ferry goes from Eminönü in downtown Istanbul to the Black Sea end of the Bosphorus, where it takes a break in the Asian fishing village of Anadolu Kavağı before returning to Eminönü. It makes several other stops along the way, but only long enough to pick up or drop off passengers.
Length of This Cruise: A round-trip Bosphorus cruise by ferry takes about 5.5-7 hours, depending on how long your boat lingers in Anadolu Kavağı (expect about 3-4 hours of actual sailing time, plus a 1.5- to 3-hour break in Anadolu Kavağı).
Here are the approximate durations of the various legs of the trip. Heading north: Eminönü to Beşiktaş (15 min), Kanlıca (40 min), Yeniköy (55 min), Sarıyer (70 min), Rumeli Kavağı (80 min), Anadolu Kavağı (90 min). Heading south: Anadolu Kavağı to Rumeli Kavağı (10 min), Sarıyer (20 min), Yeniköy (35 min), Kanlıca (50 min), Beşiktaş (75 min), Eminönü (90 min).
Sarıyer Shortcut: If you'd rather not go all the way to the end, consider getting off about 1.25 hours into the trip at the Sarıyer stop and taking the bus back . This gives you the option of visiting Rumeli Fortress, Sadberk Hanım Museum, and Dolmabahçe Palace, all described in the Sights chapter. You can also get off at Sarıyer on the return trip to see some of these sights on your way home.
Services: WCs and snack bar onboard.
Crowd-Beating Tips: Weekdays are best—the ferry can be miserably crowded on weekends, especially from late spring through early fall. Arrive at least 30 minutes before your scheduled departure time, as the best seats fill fast (on a busy day—such as a sunny weekend—show up even earlier). As you board, you'll have to choose: Have your own seat, which means you're stuck in one place the entire trip (and therefore can't see the opposite side of the Bosphorus very well); or stand up, giving you maximum flexibility for moving around and snapping photos, but without a guaranteed seat for the entire trip (seats may free up as people disembark at later stops on the route).
Private Tours: For a shorter Bosphorus cruise, consider a private excursion. Various companies sell 5-YTL cruise tickets next to the seabus port by the Galata Bridge, 50 yards from the Bosphorus ferry port. These boats will take you as far as the second bridge (Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge) and back in 1.5 hours, with no stops. Turyol—beyond the bus stops—is one of many options (cruises generally run hourly Mon-Fri 12:00-18:00, Sat 12:00-19:00, Sun 11:00-19:30, less frequently mid-Sept-mid-June, tel. 0212/527-9952, ask for Mr. Ihsan or Mr. Şenol).
There's no set schedule for these private boats (at least, not one that's strictly adhered to). Boats depart as soon as they have enough people. Just buy your ticket and hop on. These cruises are a good option if you're short on time or not interested in visiting Asia. But keep in mind that they only go up to the second bridge, so you'll see less of the Bosphorus, and won't get a glimpse of the Black Sea. In general, they stick closer to the European side on the way up, and the Asian side on the way down. Most of the information in this chapter (except for the places the boat docks) will still be relevant on these smaller cruises. Starring: Bridges between the continents, fancy waterfront mansions, fortresses, castles, and the fishing village of Anadolu Kavağı.

Getting Started

Buy your ticket at the windows facing the busy street, then go through the turnstile to reach the ferry. Hang onto your ticket— the ticket-taker will need to check it again on your return journey.
If you arrive at least 30 minutes early, there will usually be some seats left (but show up even earlier if you want to snag a seat on a sunny weekend). On the way up the Bosphorus, most of the attractions are on the left (European) side. Figure out which way is front on the boat, and pick your spot accordingly. Ideally you'd like a clear look at both sides, though because of the width of the boat and crowds on board, this often isn't possible. If you like to take photos, the open upper decks in the front and back of the boat are ideal. If all the good seats are taken, consider staking out a standing spot on the left near the back of the boat. Also notice the unobstructed view seats along the water on the lower deck. If you don't mind seeing only one side, grab one of these seats on the left (European side). Realize that people will be constantly jostling for position for the prettiest photos—so no matter where you sit or stand, you may not have the place to yourself.
Coming back, the sunlight is better for photos of the Asian side (the sun is in your eyes on the European side). So a smart plan is to sit on the left side both ways (views of the European side on the way there, the Asian side on the way back).
On the upper deck is a snack bar where you can get a simit (see-meet—sesame ring, like a Turkish bagel), candy bar, sandwich, or beverage. Attendants also walk around the ferry selling tea, coffee, fresh-squeezed orange juice, and water. Trie WCs are on the lower deck, on the sides, past the stairs to the second deck toward the front.
For the first half-hour or so, the boat moves fast and there's lots to see. Consider reading ahead so you're ready for the attractions as you pass them. (s3)