| Karaköy |
 The New District covers the area from Karaköy to Taksim Square, a few blocks up the hill. In Byzantine times, this area was inhabited by the commercial colonies of Genoese and Venetian settlers. In the late Ottoman era, it was also a residential area for non-Muslims, including Jews, Catholics, and Eastern Orthodox Christians. Today, this part of the city is dominated by the famous Galata Tower (you can just see its cone-shaped top up the hill).Karaköy is also the main passenger port of Istanbul. As you turn and face the Old Town across the Golden Horn, you'll see the public ferry and seabus ports along the embankment to your left. The port will soon be the scene of an extensive rebuilding project, as run-down buildings are torn down or renovated into art galleries and convention centers. A deluxe hotel is also planned. Locals grumble about political connections that made the project possible, but it's too late to go back now. • Notice the two levels of the bridge. We'll start by walking across the top level, then duck down to the lower level at the other end of the bridge. Climb the stairs and wander across the bridge—dodging fishing poles as you walk. FishermenEnjoy the chorus line of fishing rods, dancing their little jig. While some of these intrepid folks are fishing for fun, others are trying to land a little extra income. In the summer, kids figure it beats a lemonade stand for getting some pocket money. They mostly catch mackerel or anchovies—better than nothing, especially during the commercial fishing ban (no nets or sonar) from June to September. During the ban, most of what you find in the market is the expensive daily catch, imported frozen fish, or farm-raised fish. Approach a fisherman and wish him well, saying "Rastgele" (rust-geh-leh; "May you catch some"). Ask to see his catch of the day: Bakabilir miyim? (bah-kah-bee-leer mee-yeem; "May I see?") Each one has a jar, jug, bucket, or styrofoam cooler full of wriggling fish he'd love to show off. Be careful as you walk among the fishermen—occasionally they get careless as they swing back for a cast. • Between the bridge's two low-profile towers, find a spot out of harm's way to ponder thefamous... (s3) |